Anthony will be
guest blogging for me for a few days. Enjoy the eccentric meanderings of Lisa V
Lupo Photography’s most valued employee.
Everything slows down in Afghanistan during Eid week (post-Ramadan), permitting me enough time to push out another blog entry. For
your consideration, I present five often overlooked items of incredible
photographic value (for under $50):
1.
Folding
step ladder— Take a step above
eye-level photography [I couldn’t resist]. A folding step ladder extends
your vertical reach and opens a wealth dramatic compositional opportunities. A step
ladder is an invaluable asset for vertically challenged photographers that
prefer normal lenses and tight portraits (case in point: Lisa) —unless you enjoy asking the
subject to crouch. Interesting perspectives make for interesting photos.
Experiment and see if you like the way the world looks from 9 ft (or more) in
the air. You probably have one of these tucked away in a closet anyway. If you
don’t, you can get a sturdy, lightweight step ladder for under $50. Just be careful
not to fall off. (I’ve even used a step-ladder to double as a tripod—not a
recommended solution, but it works.)
Note the dirty towel. Somebody 'borrowed' my step ladder to dry their laundry.
By the way, this is not an authorized way to wear the 'boonie' cap; but it
prevents the brim from getting in the way when checking focus.
2.
Gray
Card— Do you trust digital white balance algorithms? I know Lisa spends most of
her time in LR and PS correcting white balance. Forget the Kelvin slider; there
are several ways to use a gray card to simplify your digital workflow. For
those of you that know LR or PS, you know that you can select a pixel of an
image that is supposed to be ‘neutral gray.’ LR/PS will correct the colors of
the whole image to remove any color cast from the pixel you selected, thereby
correcting the WB. But if you don’t have a target neutral gray pixel in your
image, you have to rely on less accurate methods (read: trial and error) to set
the WB. Gray (18%) cards provide a perfectly neutral gray with which to set the
WB in LR/PS. For every lighting situation you encounter, take one quick picture
with the gray card in the same light as your subject. In PS/LR, select a pixel
on the gray card to set the WB. Apply this WB setting to every other image in
the same lighting situation (batch process to save time). Instant success. (You
can even use a gray card to set the WB in your camera; check your manual.)
You can also use a gray card to standardize your exposures. Take a spot meter reading of a gray card in the same lighting situation as your subject. Decide how much exposure compensation you need achieve the look you like. Put the card away and take the picture. Repeat the process when you move to a new lighting situation. If you meter this way, you won’t rely on your camera’s sometimes unpredictable metering algorithms. All for less than $10.
You can also use a gray card to standardize your exposures. Take a spot meter reading of a gray card in the same lighting situation as your subject. Decide how much exposure compensation you need achieve the look you like. Put the card away and take the picture. Repeat the process when you move to a new lighting situation. If you meter this way, you won’t rely on your camera’s sometimes unpredictable metering algorithms. All for less than $10.
3.
Step-up
Ring Adapters— Lenses come in a variety of filter sizes. A step-up ring allows
you to screw on, say, a 72mm circular polarizer on a 52mm filter-size lens.
Instead of buying three medium-quality filters, you can buy one high-quality filter
and a series of inexpensive step-up rings. Bingo.
4.
Photo
Tools App by hcpl— I haven’t tested many Android apps for photographers, but I
really like this one. This may not be the prettiest app on the market, but it
includes a ton of features of interest to photographers. The app calculates
depth-of-field, estimates blue/golden hour times (using your location), reads EXIF-data
(information about how the picture was taken: aperture, ISO, focal length), calculates
field of view, and performs several additional functions you will never need. The
best part: it’s free.
5.
Depth-of-Field
Chart— A depth-of-field chart shows the nearest and furthest point in focus for
a given distance-to-subject, aperture, and film/sensor size. It sounds
complicated when described, but it’s actually very easy. Make and print a
depth-of-field chart for your camera and lenses. Print, laminate, and pocket it.
Now, instead of squinting at your LCD to check DoF (or squinting through the
viewfinder with the DoF button depressed), you can compose with DoF in mind. This
really helps for group shots (especially with film) in low-light situations
when you can’t simply stop-down to guarantee focus. Compose with ‘wiggle-room’
in mind.
Fits nicely in a green-leader book.
These
are a few of cost-effective and seldom blogged about items that, in my limited
experience, are incredibly useful to photographers.
Epilogue
Why
bother with a gray card at all? Why not just spot meter on the subject’s cheek
(applying exposure compensation as your style dictates)? Ultimately, you should
do what works best for you. Certain methods of determining exposure are more
conducive to efficiently reproducing specific styles. One key difference between those
that use a gray card and those that use a consistent but less formal method
hinges on when one prefers to make artistic decisions. For example, if you build
over-exposure into your method of taking meter readings (e.g. 'meter for the shadows' photographers), then you’ve embedded
an artistic decision within a picture-taking habit. I prefer to determine the most
accurate exposure first (or that which most closely reports reality), then
decide whether or not I want to over or underexpose for artistic reasons. I find
that this slows me down and forces me to think critically about exposure before I release
the shutter.
If you’re like me, then using the gray card provides you with a consistent and accurate metering (true to reality) methodology. In theory, spot metering a gray card is the same as taking an incident light reading with a light meter.* Photographers still use handheld light meters because light meters are consistent, predictable, accurate, and simple. Spot metering a gray card is a cheap way to achieve this same consistency.
If you’re like me, then using the gray card provides you with a consistent and accurate metering (true to reality) methodology. In theory, spot metering a gray card is the same as taking an incident light reading with a light meter.* Photographers still use handheld light meters because light meters are consistent, predictable, accurate, and simple. Spot metering a gray card is a cheap way to achieve this same consistency.
*In
practice, not all light meters are calibrated to 18% gray. This is why using a
digital camera spot meter and gray card may require that you apply slight
exposure compensation (should be less than +.5 EV). You should only need to
do this once; the particular light situation doesn’t matter.
Very interesting! Great details, Hector! :)
ReplyDeleteBy the way, at least that person hung their towel and didn't pull a "Lisa." AKA, throw the wet towel on the bed and leave it there. Lol, you always get mad at me for that.
I love you! Great post!
Leave something unattended in Afghanistan and it will quickly be re-purposed. Lesson learned. By the way, you have two gray cards coming in the mail. Kodak standards.
ReplyDeleteI love you. Take it easy.
Anthony, why do you have a step ladder if you're only going to hold the camera at your waist? It seems to me as if you were right back at eye level in that photograph.
ReplyDelete-Your secret admirer.
Secret: a step-ladder is a good way to use a waist-level finder at eye-level.
DeleteSecret pt. 2: That photo was hastily staged.
Lisa,
ReplyDeleteI like that if I swipe my phone, it moves to previous blogs. Way to be iFriendly!
iWouldLikeToSayYouAreWelcome! :)
DeleteSee what iDid there? HAHA
I'd just like to say that I am a big fan of the gray card. I should find that, I misplaced it.
ReplyDelete